I apologize because I am afraid that you are going to become very bored with this. For those who thought I was constructing the garment, I am sorry to disappoint you. I am, at this point, only sampling the pattern and its construction. Some of the stitchers are constructing wearable garments.
The patterns come without modern construction directions. I gather that we are doing the work to enable the writers to develop the construction directions. But then, I could be completely wrong. It is a little exciting to know that the patterns we are using were last used a little less than a hundred years ago; to be on the safe side, let us say they have not been used in at least 75 years.
After posting an entry on the 1912 Project blog, I decided to come back here and write my comments; I am much more comfortable working with Blogger than WordPress. Did I also tell you that I am blundering my way around Facebook? The group is using Facebook to communicate.
After constructing the front yesterday, I had intended to work on the insertion today. After Tracey posted her progress on the slip, I thought I might skip this step. After thinking it over, I decided to go ahead. My original plan was to apply the insertion to the front after constructing it but before stitching it to the back. It is a little more fussy and demanding to do it this way rather than applying the insertion to the individual pieces where possible before doing the construction. I think the way I am doing it has the advantage of reducing bulk in the seam allowance areas, enabling the garment to mold a little more closely to the body.
I am substituting wide single-fold bias tape for the insertion. It is a lot stiffer than lace insertion and a little narrower but does give us an idea of how the process works.
The bias tape represents the insertion down the center and each of the side front seams. It begins a little above the placement line for the first horizontal line of insertion across the top of the slip.
Because the garment has shaping created by the seamlines 26-27 and and 27-28, I draped the slip over a pressing ham to better pin the horizontal tape in place, covering the upper edges of the vertical lines of insesrtion.
Needless to say, I used the pressing ham to press the bias tape after I stitched it in place.
I brought Agatha Amelia, my dress form, out to help me show you how this is going to look. Agatha Amelia is too big for me to use for myself and is a little smaller than this pattern is sized. I think that she will still be helpful to us.
I used the same process with the insertion in the neckline and upper armseye areas. First I applied the four vertical segments and then I applied the horizontal one, covering the lower ends of the vertical segments.
This horizontal line of insertion does not cover the seam 26-27. Its upper edge is at the #27 point.
I want to try to find something that more closely represents the eyelet beading that is applied to the slip above and inside the rows of insertion at the neckline. The beading will have to be mitered to account for the 26-27 seams in front and the 31-32 seams in back.
The list of materials calls for 2-inch wide lace. I had assumed that it would be applied to the beading in the neckline and around the armseyes. Until now, I thought that 2 inches would be too wide. As I look at the front on Agatha Amelia, I think 2 inches will work.




3 comments:
Good job! How did you insert the "lace"? I've never done inset lace before & have been trying to figure out how to do it for my slip. It looks like you just sewed it over the seam lines.
I haven't made mine up yet - I've been trying to find inexpensive nylon lace for a mock-up with no success but I like your idea of using bias. You have great photos - makes it easy to see what you've done.
Question - is it really harder to do the 'lace' across after construction? That's the way I'm planning to construct this so there aren't seams across the horizontal lace pieces.
your work is beautiful
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